Somebody from San Francisco advised me that there have been now too many ice cream outlets within the metropolis. I didn’t suppose that was doable, however I suppose issues have modified since I moved away. (There are additionally some superb bakeries there as properly, which I don’t suppose is something to grumble about both.) Identical to in San Francisco, not solely has the baking scene in New York actually ramped up, however the ice cream scene as properly, together with Caffè Panna, the most recent addition.[NOTE: Caffè Panna will probably be making a particular sundae of a taste mixture that I impressed, with buckwheat ice cream, buckwheat honey, darkish chocolate, and French whisky. I’ll be there this Saturday, October 12, from 2pm to three:30pm. Extra information on the finish of this publish.]
Hallie Meyer is the proprietor of this Italian-inspired cafe and ice cream store, which gives up a collection of espresso drinks, in addition to a menu of ice cream flavors that modifications day by day. Hallie is the daughter of restaurateur Danny Meyer, so it’s in her DNA to foray into the meals enterprise. Like me, Hallie labored at an ice cream store in faculty. She later cooked on the American Academy in Rome, in addition to at a gelato store in Rome as properly.
When she returned to the States, she enrolled in AmeriCorps, working in group service at an underperforming faculty within the South Bronx. Whereas there, she began churning up ice cream and making a cooking membership for the scholars on Friday afternoons.
Impressed by the gelaterias in Rome, she lastly opened Caffè Panna in Manhattan. Panna is Italian for cream, and gelato in Italy is commonly served with panna; with a dollop of whipped cream on prime. As I discussed in The Excellent Scoop, some guests are stunned by that and scrape it off as soon as exterior (which I’ve seen in Italy.) However to Hallie, the whipped cream was her favourite half, and she or he even named a earlier ice cream enterprise Tripla Panna, since she loves it a lot. (She advised me tripla panna was her nickname in Rome, as she was recognized at her native gelateria for all the time ordering three scoops of gelato.) So it’s the coverage at Caffè Panna that whipped cream could be added to any cup or cone of ice cream at no further cost.
All ice lotions offered within the store are churned day by day, and any left over on the finish of the day get packed into pints and offered to go. At current, Hallie rotates via 5 modifications flavors every day, however there are 5 that keep fixed (topic to alter); Vanilla, Chocolate, White Espresso Stracciatella (espresso bean-chocolate chip), and Pink Flag, strawberry ice cream studded with graham brittle.
Of utmost significance are the standard of substances, together with pistachio and hazelnut paste from Italy, and the famed hazelnuts from Piedmont, that are what the highest pastry cooks in Paris use as properly.
In order that inexperienced scribble you see on the ice cream is Sicilian pistachio paste thinned with olive oil, however no colorants.
Hallie and pastry chef Beth Wieber additionally use Amano bean-to-bar chocolate for the stracciatella, both the Dos Rios from the Dominican Republic, or Raspberry-Rose, which you’d suppose may battle with the opposite flavors – vanilla and chocolate – nevertheless it’s completely balanced, and even somebody like me, who’s not a giant fan of raspberries and chocolate, will like it as a lot as I do.
Affogato is the Italian manner of pouring scorching espresso over ice cream, and it’s one of many nice culinary innovations, marrying two issues Italians achieve this properly. Just like the ice cream flavors that change day by day, there are day by day affogato and sundae specials, too.
Every sundae consists of two flavors of ice cream, one crunchy aspect, a drizzle or scribble of sauce, and whipped cream. The one with the pistachio drizzle proven on the prime of this publish is made with ricotta ice cream swirled with orange, Sicilian pistachio crunch, raspberry sorbet, and orange-flavored panna.
I’ve been in a number of instances since they opened a little bit over every week in the past, and the most effective sundaes that they had was made with hazelnut ice cream, above. It’s acquired a candy potato-cinnamon “goo” made by massaging candy potato cinnamon buns (made by Millers & Makers in Brooklyn, who Hallie says are really a mother & pop enterprise, and make “the most effective cinnamon buns I’ve ever had”) with caramel, then topped with a cream cheese drizzle.
Cones are baked in-house utilizing lingua di gatto, “cat’s tongue” butter cookie batter, and rolled up all through the day. And are simply one of many many objects on their day by day prep checklist.
Elements for the fruit swirls are sourced from the native greenmarket, just some blocks away in Union Sq., and others are from purveyors who supply with the identical care that Hallie does.
Plans are afoot to supply Italian pastries to go together with the ice lotions or espresso, and the terrazzo bar will probably be put to good use within the afternoon with Italian aperitivi drinks and snacks.
To rejoice the opening, I’ll be in at Caffè Panna this Saturday from 2 to three:30pm. Cease by for some ice cream…and to say hello to me and Hallie!
77 Irving Place (at 19th Road)
New York, NY
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